URWERK, renowned for its avant-garde timepieces, unveils the UR-230 Polaris. This second installment in the 230 series dares to be different, featuring a radiant white ceramic case that challenges the brand’s traditional aesthetic. The UR-230 Polaris, with its striking white case crafted from a block of proprietary fiberglass-enhanced ceramic, opens a new color horizon, offering a polar perspective. Previously focused on black, gray, and muted textures, URWERK makes a bold shift towards natural brilliance, embracing a new energy that sparkles in white. Just a year after unveiling the UR-230 Eagle, the first piece in the 230 series made entirely of TPT carbon, URWERK is already steering this collection towards a fresh and pristine vision. While the technical foundation remains unchanged, the UR-230 now showcases a pure white, highly technical material born from exclusive development.
The UR-230 Polaris is constructed from a layered, ceramic-based composite that combines innovation with performance. Its polymer base is interlaced with sheets of woven ceramic and fiberglass plies, a material that has found applications in aerospace, medical fields, and now, watchmaking. This high-performance composite merges the strengths of its components, creating a unique blend. Traditional ceramics are known for their hardness, but this can also make them vulnerable, as noted by Felix Baumgartner, master watchmaker and co-founder of URWERK. The heat-sintered nature of these materials often leads to shattering upon impact. To overcome this challenge, URWERK embarked on a journey to develop a ceramic tailored to their needs. The inclusion of glass fibers ensures that the material remains resilient and unbreakable.
The UR-230 Polaris not only conquers the primary limitations of watch-specific ceramics but also boasts an additional remarkable feature. The resin that encases the fiber-based sheets is a striking white, while the fiberglass presents a delicate light silver hue. As the case is meticulously shaped into its intricate form, the finely layered construction becomes visible, creating a dynamic visual effect that shifts with the curve and angle. This design shares a visual kinship with carbon fiber, showcasing an uneven, shimmering quality. The interplay of light transforms the surface from a deep matte to a subtle glow, resulting in a captivating dance of illumination. This particular shade of white is vibrant and ever-changing, enveloping the nearly all-black URWERK caliber UR-7.30 within.
This innovative interpretation of white emerged from careful contemplation, as Martin Frei, art director and co-founder of URWERK, elaborates: “The white case exterior paired with the black movement of the UR-230 Polaris, especially when adorned with a white strap, evokes the aesthetics of 2001: A Space Odyssey. It pays homage to Kubrick’s stunning set designs and the legendary Discovery 1 spaceship. Furthermore, this design nods to the Apollo 11 aesthetics crafted by NASA, where white served as a crucial heat shield for space exploration. This watch embodies elegance while exuding a sense of NASA-inspired coolness.”
The new UR-230 Polaris represents an advanced iteration of URWERK’s hallmark revolving satellite complication. At its core, a three-armed carousel features rotating blocks, each adorned with numerals for four hours. These blocks glide along a 120-degree arc, with the current hour’s face directed towards the viewer. Complementing this unique display, the watch incorporates an aluminum 3D retrograde hand that showcases the minutes. This skeletonized hand, echoing the color of the case and strap, is also white. As it completes its 60-minute cycle, it gracefully returns to index 0, seamlessly taking over the cube that reveals the next hour.
Beyond its captivating time display, this ceramic version introduces innovative functions unique to the UR-230. URWERK has engineered a groundbreaking set of shock absorbers designed to safeguard the new UR-7.30 caliber using turbines. The initial set of turbines is specifically crafted to mitigate the effects of external shocks, ensuring the watch’s resilience and longevity. A second set regulates the airflow that powers the winding system. The intensity of this “air brake,” which adjusts the winding power based on the wearer’s activity level, can be fine-tuned using a rotating knob located on the back of the watch. Additionally, a second switch positioned opposite the first allows for complete disengagement of the rotor, enabling the UR-230 Polaris to operate in manual winding mode. Two symmetrical indicators at 11 and 1 o’clock display the adjustment levels for these two functions.
The UR-230 Polaris, drawing inspiration from the 200 collection, proudly showcases its distinctive case design. Its trapezoidal shape elegantly stretches towards the 6 o’clock mark, featuring a staggered arrangement around the sapphire openings, a crown positioned at 12 o’clock, and a masterful interplay of sharp and softened angles. This design boldly reflects the essence of URWERK. Nestled within this striking case is the UR-7.30 caliber, securely housed in a robust, hermetically sealed compartment akin to a vault. The striking white ceramic exterior pairs seamlessly with a black DLC titanium caseback, all complemented by a durable Vulcanised rubber strap. The new UR-230 Polaris comes with a price tag of CHF 150,000 / 170,000 USD.